Day 4 – Coast to Coast – Grasmere to Patterdale

Battling against the wind

“The best form of walking is fell walking and the best part of fell walking is ridge walking and the best part of ridge walking is the traverse of high connecting skylines between neighbouring summits” Alfred Wainwright

We’ve had four fantastic days with abundant challenge and beauty, but we haven’t been able to do the very high tops or ridges. On Tuesday it could have been the High Stile alternative (Wainwright calls it the route for supermen, which of course we are), but the wind was too high. Yesterday we were right there for the ridge down to Grasmere; we took a look, but devilishly strong gusts made it clear that it would be imprudent to carry on.

Looking down to Grasmere

So today, with a slightly better forecast, we had hopes of climbing to Helvellyn and following Striding Edge down to Patterdale.

At Grisedale Tarn the wind was cold and strong – there was no debate, down the valley we would

go.

As we turned the corner to look up at Striding Edge with its snow line, it was comforting to see that we had made the right decision, the high tops and ridges will have to wait for warmer, calmer times.

Not that we are complaining. Another great walk today in wonderful valleys and hills,

Soon arriving in Patterdale ...

Wild daffodils in Patterdale Churchyard, alongside Lake Ullswater

I wandered lonely as a cloud

That floats on high o'er vales and hills,

When all at once I saw a crowd,
A host, of golden daffodils;
Beside the lake, beneath the trees,
Fluttering and dancing in the breeze.

William Wordsworth

We’ve met some other walkers who turn up periodically along the routes or in the towns. A young girl of 20, walking alone with a massive back pack, camping and raising money for charity. We were hoping she coped with the high winds yesterday and were pleased to meet her again today although she had managed to get badly lost today and admitted she didn’t have a map so we will be keeping our fingers crossed that she stays safe. 

We have also met an Australian couple who are in the UK to walk the Coast to Coast, followed by the West Highland Way and then the Cotswold Way, all back to back. Very humbling to hear. Needless to say they’ve found our weather a bit of a shock.

Tonight’s accommodation is a bit ropey, smelly bathrooms and dingy decor, but we’re coping valiantly! Tomorrow is another big day, high climbs and more miles so it’ll be an early night to night.

We liked:

1. Phil getting his TripAdvisor Senior Reviewer Badge
2. Hardly any rain during the walk
3. Nice views climbing to Grisedale Tarn

We did not like:

1. Manky coffee in Patterdale Hotel
2. Stinky en-suite bathroom
3. Walk a bit too short, tantalisingly close to Striding Edge, so near and yet so far...

Day 3 - Coast to Coast - Rosthwaite to Grasmere

Not for the faint hearted

The lady at the pub said it would be an easy day's walking today (she clearly hadn't done it), but after more scrambling than walking in high winds - up to 90 mph and driving rain - we thought she was talking nonsense.

As we left, Gill and Liz were happy (because they're daft and have no idea what is in store for them).

This is the easy part of the climb

And then it got really steep, and the wind got really strong, and the rain very heavy.

Looking down from Lining Crag, a steep climb against the wind and rain

So we were very pleased to get over the top (the ridge behind us).

Where the option was to walk the ridge you can see on the right hand of the pic. We took a look, but the gusts were too strong so we took the lower, valley route down to Grasmere instead.

Things we liked:

1. Big challenge, very satisfying at the end of the day.
2. Nice views
3. The dry stone walls - what natural artistry.
4. Liz and Gill's G&Ts when we got to the B&B

We didn't like:

1. The bastard wind
2. The driving rain
3. Liz's leaky jacket

Day 2 Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite

With the Met Office Mountain forecast giving gale conditions on the fell tops with gusts up to 70 mph the first decision was made for us. We would not be taking the Red Pike to Haystacks route. At first this was a disappointment and left us thinking we would not be having a challenging walk today. On the other hand the forecast was for a dry day with cloud clearing off the tops by mid afternoon.

A steady climb took us to Black Sail, a truly remote youth hostel where we had a cold but enjoyable lunch stop.

Why does a cheese sandwich taste so fine sitting on the fell buffeted by the wind?

From here we realised that we would get to the high ground after all, and had a long climb up to Loft Beck with fantastic views 

and the enjoyment of descending down through the Borrowdale valley. 

What we liked:

1. Changing light over Lake Ennerdale, progressively improving weather with clouds clearing away by mid afternoon and a fantastic sunny descent into Borrowdale.
2. The view of Buttermere after windy climb up Loft Beck.
3. Mrs Overall bringing soup to our table at the Royal Oak, Rosthwaite, we got nearly a full bowl.

What we didn’t like:

1. The long haul up the slate track - through the evergreen forest - it was dead boring.
2. Nothing else - hah hah great day!

Day 1 - Coast to Coast - St Bees to Emerdale Bridge

Early start from minging Travelodge! Frantic drive to St Bees (lunatic tailgating driver) .

This was where we had an excellent breakfast in the cafe overlooking St Bees beach.

Best things about today:

1. It didn't rain and the weather got progressively better 
2. Friendly chicken, naturally drawn to hen peck Phil.
3. Nobody needed the trowel
4. Met Marge (Walkers Cafe, Moor Row) who made the worst coffee anyone has ever tasted.
5. Strenuous climb up Dent hill in strong cross wind, a taste of things to come.
6. Fantastic views over Ulldale
7. Sensible decision making at Ennerdale Bridge where we called our off route destination to come and pick us up.
8. Met Helen, a Cambridge undergrad, walking and camping the route on her own for charity.

Worst things:

1. Liz fell over and tore her coat.

And we stretched ourselves

Tomorrow the weather is looking good, windy maybe, but clear and no rain. We hope to take the high route over Red Pike and Haystacks. 

Final training walk – Stowford Bridge to Crossways

A cold but dry day, we walked into Dartmoor taking the high route to Crossways, looking across to Redlake (above), and then the Puffing Billy track back home. 14.5 miles in just less than 5 hours, an average of 3 miles per hour. 

During the lunch stop at Crossways, we tried out the new group shelter which was a great success, Will wanted to come in, and succeeded at one point.

Inside it was a good 10° warmer. 

All that’s left now is to pack and hope for spring to reach the Coast to Coast route in time for our start in a week’s time.