Day 4 – Coast to Coast – Grasmere to Patterdale

Battling against the wind

“The best form of walking is fell walking and the best part of fell walking is ridge walking and the best part of ridge walking is the traverse of high connecting skylines between neighbouring summits” Alfred Wainwright

We’ve had four fantastic days with abundant challenge and beauty, but we haven’t been able to do the very high tops or ridges. On Tuesday it could have been the High Stile alternative (Wainwright calls it the route for supermen, which of course we are), but the wind was too high. Yesterday we were right there for the ridge down to Grasmere; we took a look, but devilishly strong gusts made it clear that it would be imprudent to carry on.

Looking down to Grasmere

So today, with a slightly better forecast, we had hopes of climbing to Helvellyn and following Striding Edge down to Patterdale.

At Grisedale Tarn the wind was cold and strong – there was no debate, down the valley we would

go.

As we turned the corner to look up at Striding Edge with its snow line, it was comforting to see that we had made the right decision, the high tops and ridges will have to wait for warmer, calmer times.

Not that we are complaining. Another great walk today in wonderful valleys and hills,

Soon arriving in Patterdale ...

Wild daffodils in Patterdale Churchyard, alongside Lake Ullswater

I wandered lonely as a cloud

That floats on high o'er vales and hills,

When all at once I saw a crowd,
A host, of golden daffodils;
Beside the lake, beneath the trees,
Fluttering and dancing in the breeze.

William Wordsworth

We’ve met some other walkers who turn up periodically along the routes or in the towns. A young girl of 20, walking alone with a massive back pack, camping and raising money for charity. We were hoping she coped with the high winds yesterday and were pleased to meet her again today although she had managed to get badly lost today and admitted she didn’t have a map so we will be keeping our fingers crossed that she stays safe. 

We have also met an Australian couple who are in the UK to walk the Coast to Coast, followed by the West Highland Way and then the Cotswold Way, all back to back. Very humbling to hear. Needless to say they’ve found our weather a bit of a shock.

Tonight’s accommodation is a bit ropey, smelly bathrooms and dingy decor, but we’re coping valiantly! Tomorrow is another big day, high climbs and more miles so it’ll be an early night to night.

We liked:

1. Phil getting his TripAdvisor Senior Reviewer Badge
2. Hardly any rain during the walk
3. Nice views climbing to Grisedale Tarn

We did not like:

1. Manky coffee in Patterdale Hotel
2. Stinky en-suite bathroom
3. Walk a bit too short, tantalisingly close to Striding Edge, so near and yet so far...